Best Clutch Slave Cylinder Upgrade for your motorcycle!

Last few rideouts I noticed that my clutch lever on my 2020 AJp PR7 was not quite the same as it used to be… I had to adjust it a few times as the biting point seemed like it had shifted, also It felt a bit more on the soft side too…It still worked like before, so I didn’t panic too much but I knew that something was up and I’ll have to inspect it once at home.

It’s a well known problem with them, but I was still proud of mine as it never caused me any problems before, and now, out of the blue – just went and without inspecting I couldn’t tell just yet what was wrong with it, but I assumed it would be o’ring problem – like most had reported. 

Many who had suffered from this problem seem like turned their heads away from original slave master cylinder and replaced it with the one that was made by Oberon Performance company, despite the fact that o’ring can be easily replaced. Oberon performance slave cylinder is expensive for what it is, but I thought… I’m planning a longer trip in a month or so, and I can’t risk ruining the trip just because of some silly seal, so I closed my eyes once again and ordered Oberon CLU-1500 directly from Oberon.

Once I had it on my plate, it was time to make some changes! Removed original Clutch Slave cylinder it was pretty much clear that original o’ring got shaved off for some reason – bits where everywhere and I was surprised that it was still holding pressure!

Anyway, replacement was easy, and the only difference between OEM clutch slave cylinder and Oberon one was that original had used o’ring to seal between its housing and the slave cylinder, where Oberon’s didnt – used gasket instead. 

I did what I normally do with paper gaskets – used some non-setting gasket compound – pretty amazing stuff when it comes to removing parts of the bike. It helps to seal the gap between two parts as well as it never hardens, making it so much easier when it comes to removing old gaskets! No mess, just wipe the surface down and part is good to go (reused gaskets with it multiple times with no leaks too!)

To bleed the air out of the system I used a good old trick of  “squeeze, open, close, release”. Basically top up the reservoir with oil (mineral in this case), pump it up few times and the very last time while squeezing the lever, opening up the bleed nipple, then closing it before the clutch lever bottomed out, and releasing the lever to let it draw in more oil… and then repeat…squeeze squeeze squeeze, open, close, release and repeat, till no more bubbles coming out and clutch feels like it’s pushing back a bit (Like it used to be / like it should be!).

Once all done and ready, out of curiosity I thought I’ll check the OEM one, and after a bit of fiddling with a circlip and trying to blow the cylinder out with compressed air, it finally exposed a not so happy o’ring! There seemed to be no damage on the surfaces but for whatever reason, the o’ring itself didn’t look very healthy!

Picture: OEM o’ring (size: 25mm ID, 2mm thickness)

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