For those who already know that I have moved the regulator rectifier to the front, my choice of the location will be very clear, for those who dont – go ahead and read that first how I did it, here: PR7 regulator rectifier relocation.

Moving on to electronics- my vision was very clear on what I want and what I need. Trouble was I’m not a big fan of the million fuses around the battery with all the cables from all the extras – I like it neat, tidy and easy to reach.

Since the regulator rectifier is already at the front, i thought i’ll have a look if i can fit a fuse box in there too.. and then it just rolled from there..

What components i have fitted:

Fitted 6 fuse holder, 3x 6 position bus bars, a waterproof relay, 2 waterproof fuses and SAE (battery charger plug)… oh and 4 switches in between dash and tablet.

Key Ideas for the wiring on AJP PR7

To create a separate wiring loom for all electronics including OEM samsung tablet.
Create a power outlet for the air pump that is easy to reach. Same SAE plug as the battery charger, so serves for two purposes.
Make tabs and the rest of the chargers switchable between on with ignition, completely off and on with ignition switched off.
Leave room for improvement.
Make it so this loom can be bypassed if it all fails, and old tabs charger cable could be used for charging tab again if needed.
Make it in a way that Samsung tab could be replaced with roadbook in the future.

Short Explanation of wiring diagram for my AJP PR7:

I ran 2 extra cables from the regulator rectifier to the battery via 2 waterproof fuses (30 amp cables and 30 amp fuses) closer to both ends.
They are joined in one of the bus bars, which also acts as a bridge as well as power distribution point for power on permanently.
From the bridge to the relay that is powered by the original tablet power supply for ignition on signal / power.
Then from both power distribution points cables towards the fuse box.
Fusebox outlets lead towards switches and back to another bus bar.
The 3rd busbar is left for ground only.

That way I have both Positive and Negative in one spot that gives me a choice of what to connect and where as well as what switch to use if I need it at all. And if things fail- disconnect everything and go with standard power supply for Tab like it used to be, or if AJP’s wiring fails and I’ll have no lightning and no power to power up the relay switch, I can switch Tab by flipping the switch to Permanently ON position on my switchgear!

Wiring Diagram:

Here is a wiring diagram for what I have done, it’s highly unprofessional, and I highly suggest not to follow it. However it can be useful for some of you who want to make something similar.