From day one I wasn’t happy about Rectifiers location on my AJP PR7. To start with, it’s mounted low, hard to reach and electrical connection pointing forward – inviting all the dirt and water to be trapped inside!

It’s a good design in my opinion but maybe for places that are dry, but I’m in England, it’s always wet and muddy in here! And to make things worse – i love deep water crossing, if i get a chance to cross a ford – i go for it! So for me, I would say it would be best to have it somewhere higher, and preferably with electrical connections pointing down.

New location for regulator rectifier.

12 - ajp pr7 relocated Regulator rectifier — Picture: Relocated ajp pr7 regulator rectifier.

After a good look around, i realised that if i could pull the cable out and re-route it to the other side, maybe, just maybe there will be enough cable length to mount it on the left side, next to the relays! So I had a go and it would have worked like that with not a lot of changes, however, keeping it right behind radiators might be not so healthy spot for something that likes to be cooled!

So where to mount the regulator rectifier so it’s high, out of the way, doesn’t block anything and well ventilated? yup – behind screen! Not sure why I picked the right side, probably because there is already an OBD scanner port in there, i don’t know, but i think it’s a good spot.

Dealing with wiring!

I really didn’t want to extend any more cables on my AJP, but if I wanted to move it elsewhere – I had to! Luckily, not as many as I thought I would! In fact, only 2 wires had to be extended, Positive, and Negative!

Short description

Anyway here is a short description of how I did it. Note that the fairing and air filter box is already removed.

First of all I disconnected the battery (negative first) and then removed the regulator rectifier from its original position. Note that the rear brake fluid container is sharing one of the bolts with RR (Regulator Rectifier).

Once it was out, I mounted the brake fluid canister back in its original position using a shorter bolt.

Pushed the cable up through the frame, so I could see where it joins to the main wiring loom. Did the same thing with wiring from the stator.

Removed the protective sleeve from the main wiring loom, from the spot where RR cable joins the main loom to the Stator end cable. And all I had left to do was just to cut negative and positive cables (Black and Red) and the bit that joins stator to RR was almost like a separate wiring loom and completely detached from the main loom!

Soldered decent wires to the negative and positive on that separate wiring loom, and used nice thick electrical connectors on the other end. I can’t tell what rating they are, but i had them as spares for my XT660Z, as the original ignition cable connection burned out, so i used exactly the same for that – bought it in an auto parts shop ages ago. Spade connector width is very similar to the one on the rectifier itself – for comparison.

Main wiring loom had similar treatment – soldered thick negative and positive cables, used the other end of the connector, wrapped the main wiring loom back to its protective sleeve and some electrical tape.

Stator wiring stayed routed the same way as it was before as wiring that joins RR and Stator (that is now a separate wiring loom) is so long that I had no trouble routing it from the right side of the headlight around the left side of the frame, and back to the area under the air filter box!

Bracket for Regulator Rectifier.

To create a bracket I have used a 5mm aluminium sheet that I had laying around. Simply measured how far apart headlight bolts are located, left a bit room on the sides, placed RR on it and traced it around. Cut it to shape, made it tidy, bent it using a bench vice die set!

To mount the bracket I used whatever I had on hand, and that was a couple of very long bolts with a few aluminium tubes.

Basically removed headlight bolts, and new bolts were pushed through the spring washer, my new bracket, 25mm (length) aluminium tube and only then back to the headlight and all the way to the other side where the original nut is located.